Japan Memoir: Western Kyoto

Western Kyoto - December 30th

Gold Pavillion

The Gold Pavillion aka Kinkaku-ji aka Rokuon-ji Temple lives up to the hype. It is only a short walk fromm the entrance gate and then all the sudden - boom - there it is larger than life. The day was clear and sunny. Everyone was very respectful and took turns along the fence line taking pictures. If needed people took pictures for couples and families. Many young couples and 20-somethings had "selfie" sticks. I don't really know what they are called, but they are a long pole that you attach your phone to so that you can take your own picture.

I went on a clear, sunny day. The reflection of the temple in the pond is spectacular. I am glad I went in the winter because the foliage did not detract from the temple.

This is the view from the back side. The structure was origionally a villa for a statesman named Saionji Kintsune. It was purchased by Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (third shogun of the Muromachi Period) as a guest house for Emperor Gokamatsu (Father of Zen teacher, Ikkyu). Upon his death it was converted into a temple by Muso-kokushi. (summarized from the brochure)

The path around the grounds winds around and goes up a hill. Here is the temple from the top of the hill.

Ryoanji Temple

The entrance to Ryoanji Temple is decorated for New Year. Note the purple cabbage and the green/tan bamboo shoots.

After passing through the entrance there is a short walk around a pond. I love the little stone bridge and the burnt colors of the fading trees.

Halfway around the pond you go up a hill and into the temple building. You change out of your street shoes into slippers and go onto the porch by the rock garden. Everyone was very quiet and meditative. It is said that no matter where you stand there is at least one rock (of the 15) that you can't see. The white gravel is neatly combed. I would love to see them rake it.

The rock garden is said to have been created at the end of the Muromachi Period (around 1500) by a Zen Monk named Tokuho Zenketsu. It is 25 meters from east to west and 10 meters from north to south. (from tourist brochure) I must say that I had read it was small, but I still was surprised when I saw it. It must be from all the wide angle lens photos.

The sun shimmered over the wall casting a glow over the rocks. It was the perfect time of day to visit. I had read that it can be very crowded particularly over holidays, but I did not find that to be the case.

This is a little shrine across the stone bridge.

There are statues (I think they look like pigs) in aprons.

I was fascinated by the poles that have been constructed to keep the trees from falling over. Hmmmm, I wonder if I should share this picture with Dad.

Arashiyama Area

This a little dam across the Kasura River. It is difficult to see but there are poles sticking up all the way across (stop debris?).

While searching for the bamboo forest I passed a maikko. She politely stopped and posed with people along the route. I was surpised to see her because I was not in Gion, the district known for maikko and giesha.

I love the back side of the kimono.

Tenryu-ji Temple and Garden

This is the Main Hall Entrance to the Tenryu-ji Temple. It is famous as the oldest Zen temple in Japan. I think it looks like an English Tudor house or a Swiss chalet. I purchased the garden pass, only.

This is a rock garden near the entrance. I like the neat furrows.

From a 90 degree angle the rows of white rocks look like waves.

This is Sogenchi garden and pond behind the main temple. It is one of the oldest in Japan (14th century). It has giant koi swimming in it.

There is bamboo in the Tenryu-ji Temple garden, but it wasn't the bamboo grove I thought I was going to see. When you pass through the north entrance/exit you enter the bamboo grove.

Bamboo Grove